Walking in the Albanian Alps: Tirana to Shkodër

Your journey begins in Albania’s vivid, fast-changing capital. On arrival at Tirana Airport, make your own way to your centrally located 4-star hotel. Later in the day, you will have a full briefing on the journey ahead. The evening is yours to explore: the city’s pedestrianised boulevards, colourful Ottoman-era architecture, and lively cafe culture make for an ideal introduction to Albania.

The day begins before the mountains even come into view. A private transfer carries you north to the ferry terminal at Koman Lake, where the boat threads through canyons of sheer rock and still, deep water. This is widely regarded as one of the finest ferry journeys in Europe, and it is easy to see why.

From the far shore at Fierze, a further transfer carries you deeper into the highlands to the peaceful alpine village of Cerem. There is time this afternoon for a gentle exploratory walk through the village and its surroundings, a first taste of the mountain air and the quiet that defines this part of Albania.

Today’s route follows a circuit through the Cerem Mountains, skirting the borderlands of Montenegro along a succession of forest paths, open meadows, and high viewpoints. Views stretch across the Cerem valley to the distinctive Kolata Peaks and the ridgelines reaching north into Montenegro. After completing the circuit, a private transfer brings you down into the broad Valbone valley and your base for the next two nights.

The Valbone Highlands are the centrepiece of the Albanian Alps, and today you explore them on one of the area’s most rewarding trails. The path heads through pine and beech forest along an old shepherd’s track, ascending steadily to the alpine pastures of Stani i Rames, a wide open space ringed by high peaks with the Valbone valley spread far below. From here, those who want more can continue to Rosi Pass and the border pyramid, where the views reach deep into Montenegro.

For those preferring an easier pace, we’ve included a much abbreviated version of the walk, that heads up to Kukaj, before descending on a gravel road back to the main Valbone river valley.

This is the walk the Albanian Alps are famous for. A short transfer carries you to the trailhead at Rrogam village, from where the path climbs through forest and open meadow towards the Valbona Pass, where the full scale of the Albanian Alps opens before you. Two valleys stretch away on either side: Valbone behind, Theth ahead. The descent is long and satisfying, winding down through wildflower slopes into one of the most beautiful valleys in the Balkans.

Important notice: During the Valbona Pass crossing, your luggage is transported over the mountain by horse while you walk the same route on foot. As a result, you are limited to bringing soft-shell or holdall luggage only, with a maximum weight of 20kg per person. This is a strict requirement; failure to comply may result in your holiday being cancelled on arrival in Tirana. Please note that the use of horses on this trip has been fully assessed and complies with our strict Animal Welfare Policy.

Theth is a village that rewards slow exploration, and today you have the time to do it properly. The walk leads first to the village church, a serene stone building dating from 1892, and then to the remarkable Lock-in Tower, a kulla built under the ancient Highland Law Code, the Kanun, as a refuge during times of blood feud. The last of its kind still standing in the region, it is an extraordinary piece of living history and guests are welcomed inside its storied walls (payable locally).

The trail continues to the Grunas Waterfall, a cascade of cold white water through a lush green gorge, before the route extends north along the valley towards Qafa e Pejes and the upper reaches of the Theth River, an area of quiet meadows and traditional farmsteads that sees few outside visitors.

The final walking day begins with a short transfer to Nderlysaj, gateway to one of Albania’s most extraordinary natural wonders. The trail winds through mountain scenery to the Blue Eye, a natural spring of vivid, luminous blue where the water is startlingly clear and ice cold. On a warm day it is easy to see why visitors find it hard to resist.

After returning to Nderlysaj, a private transfer carries you west through rolling highlands and river valleys to Shkoder. One of Albania’s oldest and most atmospheric cities, Shkoder rewards an evening’s exploration: a historic bazaar, Ottoman mosques and the imposing Rozafa Castle rising above the lake make for a compelling final night.

After breakfast, a private transfer returns you to Tirana Airport or Tirana city. If you would like to make the most of your time in Albania, we are happy to arrange additional nights in Shkoder or Tirana at the start or end of your trip.